Friday, May 1, 2009

Friday May 1 2009 - A Safari - And The Erotic Temples
















So, talking about early mornings, this morning we were up at 4:45 a.m. to leave on our jeep safari at 5:15 a.m. It's surprising what the human body can take. It was terrific to be up so early. It was barely light when we left our cabin to walk to the Truck. We had a quick cup of tea and loaded up in the 6-passenger-open air jeeps. Our "safari" was in Panna National Park near Khajuraho. It was an incredibly dry deciduous forest and we went with the expectation of seeing tigers. The park is 550 sqare kms but the "tourist" area is just over a 100 sq kms. There are only 3 tigers in that area, so I think the "expectation" doesn't fit the reality. Leopards are the second attraction and I forget how many there are in the tourist part of the park, but certainly not enough for us to see one on a 2 hour visit - although supposedly we did hear the call of one. Despite no tigers and leopards, we saw a variety of deer, antelope, monkeys, and birds. From the animal perspective, coming from our "country" haven in Canada this was a little disappointing. However, on the positive side, it was a wonderful to be in the country side. It soon got very hot and one of the English girls with us, experienced quite a bad spell, probably a mixture of over heating and dehydration. In fact a few of the group have been sick.

After the safari, we came back to the Lodge, had breakfast about 10 a.m. and crashed for an hour before heading out again at noon. To be honest with you, when we got back, I thought I could sleep for a year, but after an hour, and a shower, I revived and have made it through the day quite OK. Ray too is handling the incredible heat very well. We are drinking 3 or 4 litres of water a day. We headed into Khajuraho (population 20,000) about 30 km away to see the famous temples. Its quite a fascinating bit of Indian history. The temples were apparently built in the period AD 950 to AD 1050 by the Chandelas. The temples survived until the Mughal onslaught. There is no known reason why they were built. Because of their location being so isolated, i.e. no big towns, etc. the temples survived the Mughal onslaught and were only rediscovered by a British officer in 1838. The temples are ornate and many of the carvings depict love, the sex act in about 69 different positions, beastiality, and life in general in those times. It's not lewd, or crass, just very erotic, sensual and beautiful. Our guide also explained that in those times women had an important part in every day life and were well respected. He said that the reason that they are so badly treated today is because of 600 years of rule by the Moghuls and 200 years of rule by the British, mmmmm, this is only one view!

After the tour we went to the Internet cafe, then back on the Truck to the Lodge.

The town was not one of my favourite places. The people were openly wnating something for nothing and did nothing but whine about about it being out of tourist season and no tourists. It is unfortunate that these type of people only give India a bad name. The Lodge, although quite neat, has also served the worst food on the trip.

My day could be a little tainted because I don't think our Sundowners trip through Mongolia and Russia is going to be a go. We feel a little badly about this, because were were guided towards Sundowners by Trek Escapes as being a very reputable outfit, and our agent told us that he had never known a Sundowners' trip not to go.The alternative is about Cdn $2000 each more and that is just not acceptable. In addition, Sundowners gave us incorrect information about obtaining our Russian visa. We had originally wanted to use an outfit called Intrepid - now we find that is full - there is a Gap trip, but it is 2 weeks later. So, we are feeling a little "badly advised" by Trek. Anyway, I am sure we will sort something out but may just come home from Bejing as opposed to booking something else.

Anyway, back at the lodge we had another terrible meal, drowned our sorrows in a couple of beers, and hope tomorrow arms us with a more positive attitude. We are off to another tiger reserve, and understand that there is not a high chance of seeing tigers there either, which begs the question, why are we going there?

1 comment:

Randall said...

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson.

Stay hopeful.