We weren’t awake and up early but with the change of the clock, by an hour, it didn’t seem too bad!! We had our yoghourt, banana, and coffee/tea which we had bought in the supermarket yesterday and then visited the toilet for a quick wash, brush of the teeth, and freshen up. Must say, the washrooms have been kept exceptionally clean, and if they are not, you simply tell the provodnista and she attends to it….or has it attended to! I did mention that all trains have lots of boiling hot water available for drinks, noodles, etc. didn’t I? I slept in my pajamas because I hate sleeping in my clothes if I don’t have to. It just delineates the day and night better. Such a creature of habit and I hate compromising my comforts.
The landscape is totally changed. The vast, empty, areas of countryside are now heavily treed with birch, pine, and other trees I can’t identify. There are beautiful, peaceful meadows, covered with white, yellow, and purple wild flowers. We crossed the 1km long bridge over the River Yenisey.
At 9:16 am we stopped at Krasnoyarsk for half an hour and Ray and I got off the train. The station building was huge and painted white with a rusty, sandy colour on the bottom. The platform was lined with vendors with big plastic bags filled with fruit, bread, smoked fish, and all sorts of other foods. Two little kiosks sold “carbonated” water, juice, and beer. The platform was bustling with passengers buying food, taking photos, and stretching their legs. We even saw a couple “running” laps up and down the platform. Now that is too anal!! Then a few moments before the train leaves, the provodnistas give the nod, and everyone scurries back on board.
I had a nice chat with the English couple next door then a lady came around cleaning the carriage. She removed the runner over the carpet in the corridor, hoovered in the corridor and in the cabins, then came around and dusted all around the windows in the corridor and in the compartments. I could also smell bleach and she had washed the toilet out leaving everything spotlessly clean. The next hour I spent writing up my diary.
Shortly after 12:30, we decided to have lunch. We had bought some cheese and pumpernickel bread. It was really good and filled us up for quite a while. I had a 3:in:one coffee then settled down to read about Moscow and start an audio book – “Gorky Park” by Martin Cruz-Smith. I thought this would prepare me for any eventuality in Moscow!!
Around 5:30 p.m. we arrived at Mariinsk and a 20 minute stop. Once again we got on the platform and bought some meat and potato pies, some cucumbers and tomatoes, and some strawberries for dinner. Oh, and I bought 2 hot caramel pastries. They were each about 6 inches long and consisted of a chewy pastry filled with hot caramel and rolled up. They were scrumptious. When the English guy in the compartment next door saw them, he went to find the vendor, but didn’t have enough time to buy one. I gallantly gave him my second one but the truth was, I knew one would be quite sufficient for me!! He thought they were amazing too!! Why are some of the good things in life so bad for you!!
Once back on the train, Ray went for a beer with the couple next door, and I sat and listened to Gorky Park. In case you don’t know, this is a murder mystery set in Moscow. Round 7 pm we had “dinner” out of our platform purchases.
The train continues steadily on its journey. You ask: “How can you sit for so long in the train doing nothing?” It’s easy. You know how rocking a baby is soothing? That’s what being in the train is like. The gentle rocking motion as it moves along the tracks lulls you into a comatose state. You daydream as you stare out of the window watching the country go by. Maybe you dream about getting back home, maybe it’s about what do with your life next; maybe it’s about everything you’ve seen and done; and maybe it’s about all of that and more. There is no anxiety, no worry, and no stress. You can’t go anywhere, you can’t do anything, and there are no time expectations. Life is lived in the moment, not the future or the past. You roll along hypnotized by the motion; taking each thought calmly, dealing with it, and either discarding it or tucking it into its box for future attention. I think that is what the journey is about. Examining all the things that are around you in a peaceful and relaxed manner; the scenery, the history, and the politics, the people, your thoughts, and yourself. To a degree, that’s what travel is about too. It’s about learning more of yourself and the world around you to put you in a better position to earn your “merit” as the Buddhists would say. It’s a “Cora”, a pilgrimage.
Anyway, so here are my latest thoughts on the differences between the old and the young: (1) the old like to party as much as the young, but can’t do it as long; (2) the old generally move a little slower than the young; and (3) the old talk about the things they have done, while the young talk about doing them.
After dinner we sat and chatted, got our beds ready and Ray went to bed to listen to a story on his I-pod. Around 10:30 p.m. we stopped at Novosibirsk for 15 or 20 minutes. At this point we were running about 40 minutes late. The station is supposed to have a fabulous interior, but we didn’t dare take the time to go over, because of being late, we were not sure if the stop would be shortened. The Intrepid group was out on the platform playing football, while new people joined us and others left.
After that stop, I climbed into bed to listen to “Cover Up” by John Franco on my I-pod.
No comments:
Post a Comment