Friday, April 13, 2007

Pucon, Chile - Thermal Hot Springs, Canopy Tour..... and the Fire - April 10, 11, 12





































Our drive from Bariloche to Pucon went through some pretty, forested, landscape. The first part was on a dirt road which is always fun in the Truck. The five people in the back seat bounce up and down like a group of five year olds on a trampoline, while the groups of 6 and 4 people on either side of the Truck are jetisoned across the aisle like scud missiles as the Truck lurches through the potholes on the road. In the midst of the prettiest, most deserted part of the forested road, we rounded a corner and were abruptly stopped by a back-hoe sitting across the road clearing up some of the fallen timber whch had blocked the road. Ironically, the back-hoe had run out of diesel and was unable to move. So, traffic in both directions (only a couple of small cars and our Truck) was unable to pass. We were assured that someone had been dispatched for diesel, but we couldn´t imagine where they might go to get it. Tony, our ever resourceful driver was all set to syphon some diesel out of the Truck´s tank. Miraculously, two guys appeared from nowhere with a supply but the young back-hoe driver didn´t know how to bleed the air out of the fuel system to start the backhoe. Once again, luck was with us as one of the motorists in the patiently waiting cars was able to assist and soon we were on our way.

We arrived in Pucon in the rain, and it rained most of the time we were there. The temperature probably ranged from about 5C to 10C - so it was pretty damp and cold. Pucon, in the Chilean Lake District, is an outdoor adventure centre and the main attraction is the climb up the Villaricca Volcano which we were anxious to do. The town has no special features, just a main street lined with restaurants and tourist agencies but it is quite pretty, young, and friendly. It is situated in a small bay on Lago Villarrica and our camp site, Camp La Poza, was right opposite the Lake. Camping in the rain is not much fun, but our tents are very waterproof - actually they seem to be everything proof having withstood all the ferocious Patagonian winds - and the camp site had a wooden refugio with a lovely wood fire where we could cook our evening meals and huddle around the fire to warm up.

Dogs wander the streets in all South American towns, but in Pucon, they seemed to appear in larger numbers, and were more vicious. It is almost as if they act as sentries, taking you safely through their zone, then passing you on to the next sentry in the neighbouring zone. On the campsite, they were incredibly annoying, always following you about, and trying to get into our cook tent, or our sleeping tents out of the cold and wet. You couldn´t really blame them, but they are not like our dogs; they have no loyalty and no expression, so you soon come to see them as an annoyance as opposed to a pet to be coddled.

For the second time on our trip, the weather did not cooperate and we were unable to climb the volcano. Instead we filled our two days by regenerating our souls and pumping natural adrenaline into our bodies! The visit to the natural hot springs was an unforgettable experience. We were driven in a small van out of Pucon, through Villarrca, Liken Ray, Canaripe for about 1 1-2 hours the last part of which was on a one track road up the mountain, through the lush green lake district vegetation, with the snow capped mountain peaks looming in the distance. At times the road was no wider than some of the mountain paths we hiked. The thermal springs were constructed in a fissure, or crevice of the mountain side varying in width from about 10 feet to maybe 30 feet, and over the water fall tumbling down the mountain side through the crack. The lush green vegatation growing on the rocky sides of the crevice was like a rain forest, with huge shamrock shaped leaves, and enormous pointed fern leaves. We walked over the waterfall and up the mountain on a wooden board walk on either side of which the 17 hot thermal pools, 3 cold pools, and 2 showers were constructed. Dotted throughout were change rooms in wooden cabinas with grass topped rooves. The steam from the hot springs rose slowly from the water like the mist in a Scottish Glen. It was like a movie scene. Because it is the off season here, we (Ray, Robin, and myself) only met 4 other people in the 3 1-2 hours we were there, so we pretty much had the entire place to ourselves. The at times heavy rain falling only added to the atmosphere and we were able to each find our own space, heat-comfort zone, and relaxation. After taking the baths, we warmed up in the small cafe in front of a roaring wood fire, with a cup of hot chocolate. An outstanding setting in which to relax and regenerate the soul.

The next day, after another unsuccessful attempt to climb Villaricca Volcano, we decided to go on a canopy tour in the afternoon. We "flew" and "walked" through the air from tree top to tree top by way of a suspension bridge, a footbridge made of 2 wires - one you walked on and the other you held on to above your head, stairs, and finally by zip-line literally "flying" over the Trancura river. We were all harnessed to the various cables that hung throughout the forest, but none the less, we all had our challenges with different parts of the course. I don´t think the course would have been enough of an adrenaline rush for an experienced zip liner, but for me, it was certainly a new experience. It was as if my body was separated from my mind. I knew in my mind, that it was safe, but none the less over the suspension bridge and the footbridge, my legs were shaking so hard I could hardly balance myself. But my courage increased, and by the time I got to the zip lining, I was quite relaxed, jumped off without hesitation and flew through the air even managing a wave to the group on the other side of the river. I would say maximum height was around 80 feet. I hear that the zip lining in Salta goes over a canyon. Mmmm, not sure I am up for that one!

The night of the canopy tour, I got to bed in my tent around 12.30 - on Friday, April 13! Around 1.15 am we were wakened by our group leader shouting "fire, get out of your tents immediately", which we reluctantly did. As we did, the strong smell of burning wood hit us. Immediately behind the truck and our tents, the wooden refugio where we had warmed ourselves earlier in the evening by the side of the fire, was ablaze. We huddled together in a group watching the bright orange, red and yellow flames, leap into the black sky with the unmistaken crackling sound of a wood fire. We were conscious of the gas cooker in the refugio which could explode at any minute, and of the fact that a spark could land on any one of our tents quickly spreading the fire. Soon two fire engines arrived and after about half an hour, the fire was put out. We were lucky. Duncan, one of our group, heard the crackling of the fire, and not really beliving what he thought he was hearing got up, saw the flames, and woke our group leaders who alerted the owner, and the rest of the group. Thanks to Duncan, the fire was quickly brought under control without any further damage or injuries. As we drove out of the camp site around 7.30 a.m., I saw a very dejected young man inspecting the results of the night´s disaster. Who knows, maybe he was the owner´s son, or maybe just an employee.
Note
Pictures of Canopy tour and Pucon area - will add pictures of the Springs when available

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

OMIGOD!! Makes me feel ill just reading it!! You have some courage to cross by such a precarious route! Sooner you than me, that's for sure!! Off to get a glass of wine to recover!!
Kathleen x

Anonymous said...

Glad to see mom challenged her fear of heights! Good on ya!!!