Our Inca Trail expedition started on Tuesday, May 8 when we drove from Cusco to Ollantaytambo along the beautiful valley of the Urubamba River with steep mountain sides rising from one side of the road and lush green vegetation, jagged mountain peaks and snow capped mountains in the background on the other. In Ollantaytambo, we bought our coca leaves and catalyst necessary to mix with the coca leaves to make them effective, snacks, and last minute supplies. Then it was back on the coach to kilometer 82 and the start of our trek. I should clarify that there are many Inca trails, but the one we trekked is the most common trail. We were feeling excited about the expedition, but also a little anxious about how we would cope with it.
At kilometer 82, we got off the bus, walked along the railway to the control point, showed our passports on which we got a really nice stamp, crossed a bridge and we were on our way.
Our first day's hike was an easy one with only 11 kilometers to be covered. The scenery was spectacular, trekking along the river Kusichaca Stream, with huge grassy jagged mountains on either side, then crossing over the river and heading to the campsite at Wayllabamba at 3000 meters above sea level. We started trekking about 10.30 a.m., and arrived in the campsite around 3 p.m. The trail was kind to us with a good mixture of up and down. The surface of the path was quite clear with some stoney areas and some steep steps. We met all kinds of pack-donkeys and mules along the way which were loaded up with goods or else hiding in the bushes resting. Along the way, ladies in traditional dress sold bottles of water, juice, gatorade, chocolate and other snacks. We were astonished at both the number of people trekking, and the number of people on the trail. Every so often there were rest areas with thatched rooves. Loos were squat boxes, with flush. Just before lunch, we stopped at the ruins at Patallacta, an Inca village.
Our tour was arranged by Pachamama Exhibition and along with the 22 of the Oasis
group, there were 24 porters, which included a head porter, 2 cooks, and 2 assistant cooks, and three English speaking (or should I say 1 English speaking and 2 attempting to be English speaking) guides. The porters are an amazing group of people. They carried our luggage - 7 kilo max each -, tents, food, gas cylinders for cooking, etc. The porters start out life living in the Andes usually in a farming community where they get experience running up and down the side of the mountains carrying large loads. I thought that maybe there would be a training program for the porters, such as shadowing an experienced porter, maybe carrying half a load for half the time, or some other build up to carrying 25 kilos up and down the mountain, but no, there is none. Straight from the farm to a full fledged porter expected to carry their weight. The porters literally trot along the paths always aiming to arrive at the lunch destination or the camp site ahead of the group, so that when we arrived, lunch would soon be ready, and at the end of the trek, we would arrive at the designated camp sites to find our tents erected and waiting for us. We were a little spoiled. Also, the food the cooks prepared was outstanding. Very tasty, loads of it, and beautifully decorated. I´'ll put up some pictures at some stage to show some of the dishes they served.
So needless to say, when we finished our short trek on our first day, we arrived at the camp site and set up our sleeping mats and sleeping bags in our tents ready for bed. There are designated camp sites along the trail, which wind up the mountain side on tiers. Each group is assigned a different level. Also, apparently, the number of people on the trail is limited to 500, including porters. The government also prescribes that there will be at least one porter for every tourist trekking the trail. So, it is all quite controlled. That first day, at tea time (yes, we even had tea - usually popcorn and cake or biscuits of some description at 5.15 p.m.) we had an introduction to the porters and cooks each of whom took great glee in giving all the girls a hug and a kiss on the cheek, this being the traditional Quechuan greeting.
At 7.30 p.m. we had dinner and immediately after went off to bed. The weather on this day was quite warm, but in the evening when the sun went down, it was quite chilly, and we all wrapped up warmly in fleeces, gloves and hats. It also got dark early, probably around 6 p.m., so it seemed natural to be in bed before 9.30 p.m.
Inside our tents we were cosy and warm, and had had a great night's sleep lulled by the sound of a waterfall falling close by the camp site. It was so still and quiet and the only noises came from some of the other campsites until they too fell silent.
Day 2 was a killer. Sometime during the night, it started to rain, and it poured solidly until the end of the 2nd day. We were up around 4.45 a.m. for breakfast, packed up the tent, and set off trekking around 6.45 a.m. to cover the 15 km - in the rain! We had to climb straight up the mountain in approximately 5 hours, then 1 1-2 hours going equally straight down the mountain. We started climbing right from the camp site and climbed up the mountain in a river gorge, waterfalls all around us. The scenery was absolutely stunning, no words can describe the vastness of the mountains, but it was absolutely the hardest physical trial I have ever completed. Worse than any marathon! I was totally stretched. I never doubted that I would be able to finish the climb, but at times, I did wonder how long it might take me. We climbed up hundreds of granite steps, and over boulders and stones, with sheer drops of thousands of feet down into the valley below. So we not only had the physical test, but a psychological test as well, as a careless slip, could be fatal. In fact afterwards, we learned that even porters have fallen to their death - nobody mentioned tourists! The climb took us up to 4,215 meters above sea level at the highest point of the pass - ironically called "Dead Woman's Pass". At this point, the rain had turned into snow, there was a strong wind blowing, and it was freezing!! Needless to say, we did not spend more than a few minutes at the top to celebrate our success. I think it was the altitude that made it so difficult. We would literally climb a few steps, maybe 50 feet or so, and then feel absolutely breathless. At some points towards the end, my legs seemed to have no strength left and at one stage I remember standing in front of a big step willing my legs to work. Marathon training definitely helped with the stamina required, but 10 and ones were out - definitely worse than any Hell Hill - and it lasted 5 hours. The descent, although not as taxing from a breathing point of view, was definitely very difficult as we were now going down the steep mountain side on the same type of path, i.e. hundreds of steps, stoney paths and clambering over boulders - all in the rain, which only made everything very slippy. Fortunately, I had rented two walking sticks and to Shaheda who first suggested this, and our tour leader Diana who said they were a must, I shall for ever be grateful. I don´t think I could have managed the climb with so little after effects without them. At one point, I slipped and fell - didn´t hurt myself, and we even saw one of the porters slip and fall, so we know conditions were bad. It was slow progress down, but we saw lots of little birds, including some humming birds, and lots of beautiful yellow, white, and purple flowers. There were waterfalls all around us, and as I said before, the scenery was stunning with huge moss-green mountains towering all around us. Just as we were coming into the camp sitearound 1:45 p.m., a couple of the porters met us with a cup of tea and coffee with two huge chunks of bread. I almost kissed them! We weren´t last though, I think there were 4 people behind us who arrived within the next hour. The young guys in our group, Duncan and Sam (both 19), arrived around 11 a.m.!! I also have to admit to having two melt downs on the climb up and thanks to Ray, I overcame them, pulled myself together and kept on going. And, we did it!!
When we arrived in the camp site, Ray went to lunch, and I went straight into my tent, changed out of my wet clothes, put on my dry thermal underwear and crawled into my sleeping bag. I lay there warm and cosy, listening to the rain outside and one of my audio books for about 3 hours. Then I got up for tea, ate tons of popcorn and started to feel better. Everything was absolutely soaked though, my rain suit, my one set of thermal, gloves, etc. and because of the dampness, it had no opportunity to dry out. I was so glad we had packed our clothes in our duffle bags which were carried by the porters in plastic bags, so they were nice and dry. After supper, it stopped raining, but by then everyone was totally miserable, even the porters. So it was early to bed where once again, I was warm and toasty, and had another great night´s sleep.
The third day we had 12 kms to trek and it started a little later, and we didn´t start trekking until 8.30 a.m. The porters woke us up each morning with a cup of coca or muña tea. Mmmm, delicious! We headed straight up hill from the camp site for 45 minutes to some Inca ruins at Runkurakay at 3800 meters. It is truly amazing to see so many ruins that are mostly original and which are incredibly preserved. Mind you, when you think of it, they should be, they are in the middle of nowhere, and I am sure there isn´t exactly a large population around to destroy them!Then after a short rest at these ruins we set off again and continued up for another 30 minutes to a second pass at 3900 meters, Then it was down to a further set of ruins at Sayaqmarka, and finally down further to our lunch stop. After lunch, and a short rest, we set off again climbing up for 1 1-2 hours to a third pass at 3,650 meters and then down a bit to our camp site at Phuyupatamarka at 3,580 meters altitude. We had a lovely walk in the afternoon along the same stoney path with steep drops to the valley below. In some cases the path was not more than 15" to 18" wide and this certainly kept us awake and the adrenalin flowing. Fortunately, there were not quite so many steps. We also went through a natural Inca tunnel. The sun was shining once again, and all of our wet clothes were draped in various fashion over our day packs as we tried successfully to dry everything out. There were more Inca ruins just below the camp site and once again we marveled at how advanced the Incas were back in the 1400s-1500s and what a shame it was that the Spanish wiped them out. Because of obvious reasons, we note a very strong hatred of the Spanish, particularly in Bolivia and Peru where the people really feel that the Spanish looted the country of many riches. The world has so much beauty but to see it, you really have to put yourself where few have been. South America in particular has many of these spots and we have been so lucky to have this opportunity to see some of them.
Once again we had tea at 4.45 p.m. served in our Andean living room overlooking the most fantastic mountain scenery in the world. Then it was a first class dinner since it was "the last supper" together. Once again we had an opportunity to thank the cooks and the porters and went through the same ritual of kisses, hugs and handshakes all around. Since we had an early start the next day, we were in bed by 9.15 p.m.
On Friday morning, our final day on the trek (12 kms to trek), we were wakened up at 2.00 a.m., in an effort to leave camp at 2.40 a.m. A group of 6 of us had decided to leave about an hour ahead of the rest of the group because we felt we were a little slower and we didn´t want to be the cause of the group not seeing the sunrise at the Sun Gate. So, we set off in the pitch black with our head lights to guide us down the steepest, most treacherous slopes in the world. Well, that may be an exaggeration, but that was what it felt like. We were up in the clouds, and the light from our headlights glistened against the droplets of moisture falling from the clouds. The path was narrow and steep, and there were hundreds of steps, both regular and irregular, lots of bolders, rocks, and it was so slippy. Our progress was really slow. There were about 2 occasions when the path was so narrow, that I almost had a panic attack at the thought of walking down and really had to talk severely with myself to keep my cool. And once, I slipped and fell, once again not hurting myself. All around us was silence. It was so earie. It was as if there was no one else in the world except us. This precariousness lasted for about 2 1-2 hours by which time the main group had caught up with us. After that, we were down out of the clouds and the trail became much easier. Then daylight came and around 6.30 a.m., after another body stretching climb, we arrived at the Sun Gate. The Sun Gate is at 2,750 meters and this is supposed to be where you get your first glimpse of Machu Picchu. Everyone was so disappointed, because the early morning mist had filled the valley and you couldn´t see the mountain or the ruins. All you could see was cloud. The guide books did warn us of this, but none the less, it was a little disappointing. We waited about an hour, and the mist played with us. It would drift slowly away, giving us a sneak preview of the ruins, then just as quickly, it drifted back into the valley. But it never let us see Machu Picchu. Dejected, the group started down the mountainside to the Machu Picchu site where we arrived around 8.30 a.m. We had some breakfast (a hamburger and fries!) and entered the Machu Picchu site. At last the sun was hot enough to burn off the cloud, and we got a full view of the ruins and our first glimpse of Machu Picchu itself. You have probably all seen the famous picture of Wayna Picchu and the ruins, well that is just what it was like. It was so overwhelmingly beautiful all I wanted to do was sit and take it all in. The enormity and quality of the ruins is amazing. Apparently, I think they are about 70 per cent original and the rest has been restored. Our guide took us all over the ruins and then around 11.30 we were left on our own.
You would think that we had had enough of climbing! But, we had been told that the climb up Wayna Picchu was spectacular, and particularly since we had not had the view of the site from the Sun Gate, we thought we would climb it. Well, if we thought the Inca Trail was treacherous in parts, the climb up Wayna Picchu was totally treacherous. It was literally one hour of scrambling up steep steps to the top. We were OK climbing this because the altitude was only about 2500 meters. But the mental stress made up for the lack of physical stress! When we got to the top, Ray and I scrambled over the rocks at the pinnacle only to find ourselves coming down the side of the ruins at the top of the mountain on some very steep steps, which were about 6 to 8 inches wide and maybe 18 inches long with an immediate drop at the edge and in front of about 1000 meters to the Inca site of Machu Picchu below. Fear doesn´t describe what I felt! However, being fairly practical, I once again spoke severely to myself, got my panic attack under control, and moved very slowly, step by step - sideways, hugging the ruins on my left and not daring to move my eyes forward or to the other side. I guess we must have done about 20 feet like this before slipping in through one of the windows in the ruins to safety. Now Ray's perception of this escapade is a little different, and his blazay comment was something like "You have to learn to trust yourself". Well I did, and thank goodness, my body co-operated. An hour later we were down on the ground and I heaved a sigh of relief. No more climbing for me for a long time!
So, all in all, Machu Picchu was an outstanding experience. Having trekked the trail really gave us a huge appreciation for who the Incas were and how they lived. They must have been hugely fit to trek the mountains the way they did. Everything is either up, or down, there is no flat. We certainly had our fill of physical challenge, cultural education, and outstanding scenery. The girls on the Truck say we are "hard chore". Not quite sure what this means, but I guess its got something to do with doing the extreme.
After our day at Machu Picchu, we caught the bus down the switch back road to Aguas Calientes at 2000 meters to the train station. We took the train along the Urubamba River and had a beautiful trip to Ollantaytambo where we caught the bus back to Cusco. We were supposed to be participating in a 24 hour challenge - i.e. 24 hours awake. However, after having dinner back in Cusco, we crept off to bed for a good night's sleep and to dream of the incredible adventure we had just completed.
At kilometer 82, we got off the bus, walked along the railway to the control point, showed our passports on which we got a really nice stamp, crossed a bridge and we were on our way.
Our first day's hike was an easy one with only 11 kilometers to be covered. The scenery was spectacular, trekking along the river Kusichaca Stream, with huge grassy jagged mountains on either side, then crossing over the river and heading to the campsite at Wayllabamba at 3000 meters above sea level. We started trekking about 10.30 a.m., and arrived in the campsite around 3 p.m. The trail was kind to us with a good mixture of up and down. The surface of the path was quite clear with some stoney areas and some steep steps. We met all kinds of pack-donkeys and mules along the way which were loaded up with goods or else hiding in the bushes resting. Along the way, ladies in traditional dress sold bottles of water, juice, gatorade, chocolate and other snacks. We were astonished at both the number of people trekking, and the number of people on the trail. Every so often there were rest areas with thatched rooves. Loos were squat boxes, with flush. Just before lunch, we stopped at the ruins at Patallacta, an Inca village.
Our tour was arranged by Pachamama Exhibition and along with the 22 of the Oasis
group, there were 24 porters, which included a head porter, 2 cooks, and 2 assistant cooks, and three English speaking (or should I say 1 English speaking and 2 attempting to be English speaking) guides. The porters are an amazing group of people. They carried our luggage - 7 kilo max each -, tents, food, gas cylinders for cooking, etc. The porters start out life living in the Andes usually in a farming community where they get experience running up and down the side of the mountains carrying large loads. I thought that maybe there would be a training program for the porters, such as shadowing an experienced porter, maybe carrying half a load for half the time, or some other build up to carrying 25 kilos up and down the mountain, but no, there is none. Straight from the farm to a full fledged porter expected to carry their weight. The porters literally trot along the paths always aiming to arrive at the lunch destination or the camp site ahead of the group, so that when we arrived, lunch would soon be ready, and at the end of the trek, we would arrive at the designated camp sites to find our tents erected and waiting for us. We were a little spoiled. Also, the food the cooks prepared was outstanding. Very tasty, loads of it, and beautifully decorated. I´'ll put up some pictures at some stage to show some of the dishes they served.
So needless to say, when we finished our short trek on our first day, we arrived at the camp site and set up our sleeping mats and sleeping bags in our tents ready for bed. There are designated camp sites along the trail, which wind up the mountain side on tiers. Each group is assigned a different level. Also, apparently, the number of people on the trail is limited to 500, including porters. The government also prescribes that there will be at least one porter for every tourist trekking the trail. So, it is all quite controlled. That first day, at tea time (yes, we even had tea - usually popcorn and cake or biscuits of some description at 5.15 p.m.) we had an introduction to the porters and cooks each of whom took great glee in giving all the girls a hug and a kiss on the cheek, this being the traditional Quechuan greeting.
At 7.30 p.m. we had dinner and immediately after went off to bed. The weather on this day was quite warm, but in the evening when the sun went down, it was quite chilly, and we all wrapped up warmly in fleeces, gloves and hats. It also got dark early, probably around 6 p.m., so it seemed natural to be in bed before 9.30 p.m.
Inside our tents we were cosy and warm, and had had a great night's sleep lulled by the sound of a waterfall falling close by the camp site. It was so still and quiet and the only noises came from some of the other campsites until they too fell silent.
Day 2 was a killer. Sometime during the night, it started to rain, and it poured solidly until the end of the 2nd day. We were up around 4.45 a.m. for breakfast, packed up the tent, and set off trekking around 6.45 a.m. to cover the 15 km - in the rain! We had to climb straight up the mountain in approximately 5 hours, then 1 1-2 hours going equally straight down the mountain. We started climbing right from the camp site and climbed up the mountain in a river gorge, waterfalls all around us. The scenery was absolutely stunning, no words can describe the vastness of the mountains, but it was absolutely the hardest physical trial I have ever completed. Worse than any marathon! I was totally stretched. I never doubted that I would be able to finish the climb, but at times, I did wonder how long it might take me. We climbed up hundreds of granite steps, and over boulders and stones, with sheer drops of thousands of feet down into the valley below. So we not only had the physical test, but a psychological test as well, as a careless slip, could be fatal. In fact afterwards, we learned that even porters have fallen to their death - nobody mentioned tourists! The climb took us up to 4,215 meters above sea level at the highest point of the pass - ironically called "Dead Woman's Pass". At this point, the rain had turned into snow, there was a strong wind blowing, and it was freezing!! Needless to say, we did not spend more than a few minutes at the top to celebrate our success. I think it was the altitude that made it so difficult. We would literally climb a few steps, maybe 50 feet or so, and then feel absolutely breathless. At some points towards the end, my legs seemed to have no strength left and at one stage I remember standing in front of a big step willing my legs to work. Marathon training definitely helped with the stamina required, but 10 and ones were out - definitely worse than any Hell Hill - and it lasted 5 hours. The descent, although not as taxing from a breathing point of view, was definitely very difficult as we were now going down the steep mountain side on the same type of path, i.e. hundreds of steps, stoney paths and clambering over boulders - all in the rain, which only made everything very slippy. Fortunately, I had rented two walking sticks and to Shaheda who first suggested this, and our tour leader Diana who said they were a must, I shall for ever be grateful. I don´t think I could have managed the climb with so little after effects without them. At one point, I slipped and fell - didn´t hurt myself, and we even saw one of the porters slip and fall, so we know conditions were bad. It was slow progress down, but we saw lots of little birds, including some humming birds, and lots of beautiful yellow, white, and purple flowers. There were waterfalls all around us, and as I said before, the scenery was stunning with huge moss-green mountains towering all around us. Just as we were coming into the camp sitearound 1:45 p.m., a couple of the porters met us with a cup of tea and coffee with two huge chunks of bread. I almost kissed them! We weren´t last though, I think there were 4 people behind us who arrived within the next hour. The young guys in our group, Duncan and Sam (both 19), arrived around 11 a.m.!! I also have to admit to having two melt downs on the climb up and thanks to Ray, I overcame them, pulled myself together and kept on going. And, we did it!!
When we arrived in the camp site, Ray went to lunch, and I went straight into my tent, changed out of my wet clothes, put on my dry thermal underwear and crawled into my sleeping bag. I lay there warm and cosy, listening to the rain outside and one of my audio books for about 3 hours. Then I got up for tea, ate tons of popcorn and started to feel better. Everything was absolutely soaked though, my rain suit, my one set of thermal, gloves, etc. and because of the dampness, it had no opportunity to dry out. I was so glad we had packed our clothes in our duffle bags which were carried by the porters in plastic bags, so they were nice and dry. After supper, it stopped raining, but by then everyone was totally miserable, even the porters. So it was early to bed where once again, I was warm and toasty, and had another great night´s sleep.
The third day we had 12 kms to trek and it started a little later, and we didn´t start trekking until 8.30 a.m. The porters woke us up each morning with a cup of coca or muña tea. Mmmm, delicious! We headed straight up hill from the camp site for 45 minutes to some Inca ruins at Runkurakay at 3800 meters. It is truly amazing to see so many ruins that are mostly original and which are incredibly preserved. Mind you, when you think of it, they should be, they are in the middle of nowhere, and I am sure there isn´t exactly a large population around to destroy them!Then after a short rest at these ruins we set off again and continued up for another 30 minutes to a second pass at 3900 meters, Then it was down to a further set of ruins at Sayaqmarka, and finally down further to our lunch stop. After lunch, and a short rest, we set off again climbing up for 1 1-2 hours to a third pass at 3,650 meters and then down a bit to our camp site at Phuyupatamarka at 3,580 meters altitude. We had a lovely walk in the afternoon along the same stoney path with steep drops to the valley below. In some cases the path was not more than 15" to 18" wide and this certainly kept us awake and the adrenalin flowing. Fortunately, there were not quite so many steps. We also went through a natural Inca tunnel. The sun was shining once again, and all of our wet clothes were draped in various fashion over our day packs as we tried successfully to dry everything out. There were more Inca ruins just below the camp site and once again we marveled at how advanced the Incas were back in the 1400s-1500s and what a shame it was that the Spanish wiped them out. Because of obvious reasons, we note a very strong hatred of the Spanish, particularly in Bolivia and Peru where the people really feel that the Spanish looted the country of many riches. The world has so much beauty but to see it, you really have to put yourself where few have been. South America in particular has many of these spots and we have been so lucky to have this opportunity to see some of them.
Once again we had tea at 4.45 p.m. served in our Andean living room overlooking the most fantastic mountain scenery in the world. Then it was a first class dinner since it was "the last supper" together. Once again we had an opportunity to thank the cooks and the porters and went through the same ritual of kisses, hugs and handshakes all around. Since we had an early start the next day, we were in bed by 9.15 p.m.
On Friday morning, our final day on the trek (12 kms to trek), we were wakened up at 2.00 a.m., in an effort to leave camp at 2.40 a.m. A group of 6 of us had decided to leave about an hour ahead of the rest of the group because we felt we were a little slower and we didn´t want to be the cause of the group not seeing the sunrise at the Sun Gate. So, we set off in the pitch black with our head lights to guide us down the steepest, most treacherous slopes in the world. Well, that may be an exaggeration, but that was what it felt like. We were up in the clouds, and the light from our headlights glistened against the droplets of moisture falling from the clouds. The path was narrow and steep, and there were hundreds of steps, both regular and irregular, lots of bolders, rocks, and it was so slippy. Our progress was really slow. There were about 2 occasions when the path was so narrow, that I almost had a panic attack at the thought of walking down and really had to talk severely with myself to keep my cool. And once, I slipped and fell, once again not hurting myself. All around us was silence. It was so earie. It was as if there was no one else in the world except us. This precariousness lasted for about 2 1-2 hours by which time the main group had caught up with us. After that, we were down out of the clouds and the trail became much easier. Then daylight came and around 6.30 a.m., after another body stretching climb, we arrived at the Sun Gate. The Sun Gate is at 2,750 meters and this is supposed to be where you get your first glimpse of Machu Picchu. Everyone was so disappointed, because the early morning mist had filled the valley and you couldn´t see the mountain or the ruins. All you could see was cloud. The guide books did warn us of this, but none the less, it was a little disappointing. We waited about an hour, and the mist played with us. It would drift slowly away, giving us a sneak preview of the ruins, then just as quickly, it drifted back into the valley. But it never let us see Machu Picchu. Dejected, the group started down the mountainside to the Machu Picchu site where we arrived around 8.30 a.m. We had some breakfast (a hamburger and fries!) and entered the Machu Picchu site. At last the sun was hot enough to burn off the cloud, and we got a full view of the ruins and our first glimpse of Machu Picchu itself. You have probably all seen the famous picture of Wayna Picchu and the ruins, well that is just what it was like. It was so overwhelmingly beautiful all I wanted to do was sit and take it all in. The enormity and quality of the ruins is amazing. Apparently, I think they are about 70 per cent original and the rest has been restored. Our guide took us all over the ruins and then around 11.30 we were left on our own.
You would think that we had had enough of climbing! But, we had been told that the climb up Wayna Picchu was spectacular, and particularly since we had not had the view of the site from the Sun Gate, we thought we would climb it. Well, if we thought the Inca Trail was treacherous in parts, the climb up Wayna Picchu was totally treacherous. It was literally one hour of scrambling up steep steps to the top. We were OK climbing this because the altitude was only about 2500 meters. But the mental stress made up for the lack of physical stress! When we got to the top, Ray and I scrambled over the rocks at the pinnacle only to find ourselves coming down the side of the ruins at the top of the mountain on some very steep steps, which were about 6 to 8 inches wide and maybe 18 inches long with an immediate drop at the edge and in front of about 1000 meters to the Inca site of Machu Picchu below. Fear doesn´t describe what I felt! However, being fairly practical, I once again spoke severely to myself, got my panic attack under control, and moved very slowly, step by step - sideways, hugging the ruins on my left and not daring to move my eyes forward or to the other side. I guess we must have done about 20 feet like this before slipping in through one of the windows in the ruins to safety. Now Ray's perception of this escapade is a little different, and his blazay comment was something like "You have to learn to trust yourself". Well I did, and thank goodness, my body co-operated. An hour later we were down on the ground and I heaved a sigh of relief. No more climbing for me for a long time!
So, all in all, Machu Picchu was an outstanding experience. Having trekked the trail really gave us a huge appreciation for who the Incas were and how they lived. They must have been hugely fit to trek the mountains the way they did. Everything is either up, or down, there is no flat. We certainly had our fill of physical challenge, cultural education, and outstanding scenery. The girls on the Truck say we are "hard chore". Not quite sure what this means, but I guess its got something to do with doing the extreme.
After our day at Machu Picchu, we caught the bus down the switch back road to Aguas Calientes at 2000 meters to the train station. We took the train along the Urubamba River and had a beautiful trip to Ollantaytambo where we caught the bus back to Cusco. We were supposed to be participating in a 24 hour challenge - i.e. 24 hours awake. However, after having dinner back in Cusco, we crept off to bed for a good night's sleep and to dream of the incredible adventure we had just completed.
1 comment:
Liz and Ray-
What a challenging and inspiring story about your Inca Trail trek. I am amazed by your tenacity and spirit of adventure...so few of us would have the mental grit, let alone the fitness level, to do what you have accomplished. I cannot imagine what it was like to stand in awe of the lost city from such a high perch...congratulations!
Pat and Richard
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