Sunday, March 22, 2009

Sunday March 22 – Wrap up in Cornwall

Ray and I haven’t managed to get up early and we didn’t this final morning in Cornwall either. Our excuse is that we know that once we leave the UK, there will be no slouching around in the mornings as we will have to be up and on our way early.

We set out about 2 p.m. and headed to the western coast of the peninsula. On the way, we stopped at a roadside organic food store and bought an organic chicken for dinner. You might find something like this in the city in Toronto but I am not aware of anything in Uxbridge or Newmarket that even closely resembles the variety of organic foods for sale.

We first went past Trengwainton Gardens and the beautiful pink and white magnolia trees. Camille volunteered there two years ago for a period of 4 years. Then we continued along the little narrow roads to St. Just, and finally Cape Cornwall and Priests Cove. This is another unique and beautiful site and in fact we saw an artist painting it. Amazingly, we also saw 2 young guys in wet suits body surfing among the rocks in the ocean. It all looked a little dangerous to me, then we noticed a “swimming pool” had been built in the rock pools. They boys dove into the pool. Camille told us about “tomb stoning” – a dare game where people jump off high rocks and cliffs into pools of water often ending up either killing or severely injuring themselves. As we walked back up the cliff we found some miniature highland cattle which have been bred in Cornwall because of their hardiness. They were quite cute, and seemed to be quite safe when I went into their field to photograph them!

After our brisk walk at the Cove, we stopped into The Cook Book (in St. Just) for a genuine Cornish cream tea (i.e. 2 scones, a saffron bun, loads of Cornish clotted cream and fresh Cornish strawberry jam mmmmmmm!! Is your mouth watering??

Then it was back in the car and we drove along a pretty road past Tregeseal and the ruin of the Botallack Mine. This is one of the most ancient hard-rock tin and copper mining areas of Cornwall and miners have even sunk shafts and driven levels out beneath the ocean bed. The location is stunning as its built right down the side of the cliff. The miner’s in the 1800s must have been tough people to work under these conditions. We also stopped into the “Count House” – this is the mine administration building – where we were greeted with the sounds of balloons popping and children laughing as a birthday party came to an end.

We continued our drive around the coast and at Lower Boscaswell we walked through the tiny granite houses to the sea’s edge and looked back at Geevor Mine which is a tourist theme site. Our last stop in Cornwall was at Pendeen Watch to see the Pendeen Lighthouse silhouetted against the setting sun. It would be an amazing experience to stay overnight in the lighthouse, which is possible. Our drive home took us along a road voted the most scenic route in Britain. We drove through the moors, and little towns such as Rosemerdy, Boswednack, Zennor (where there is a hostel) and into St. Ives and Carbis Bay, then back to Chy-Lowena.

Cornwall is a dream. It is a hikers’ haven, and a runners “rave run”. The coast line is rigorous and dramatic, and the interior is carved into neat fields bordered by walls or hedges or moorland grazing. Stephen and Camille have been wonderful hosts going way beyond what any traveller would expect. We have sat around their table sharing stories, reminiscing about our days together in Montreal, and then their visit to Toronto and our visit and meeting in London. We have lots in common: love of dogs and animals, hiking and cream teas; and lots of differences such as hobbies, personality, and choice of location. Some how it has worked. I hope they have enjoyed being with us, as we have with them. We look forward to the next time we get together and the further adventures we might share.

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