Wednesday May 20 and Thursday May 21 - Nepal to China

We left The Last Resort around 8:30 am for our short drive to the C. border. We continued our drive along the canyon walls. In parts, where there had been mud slides, or wash-outs, the asphalt road became almost unpassable rock and boulders. The road was too narrow for 2 vehicles to pass, which resulted in one vehicle having to back up if we didn't meet at a wider spot. The journey was beautiful though as we went up and down and around and through majestice steep mountains heavily carpeted with green trees. After about 2 hours we arrived in Kodari for the start of the border crossing process. Once again the border town was a narrow street running through the centre of town. The passengers moved swiftly through the exit process and once back in the Truck we amused ourselves watching the commotion in the street. The trucks of course were blocking everything: officious looking policemen kept signalling us to move, but Ian was in the customs building dealing with the paper-work to get the Truck out of Nepal. So we just sat there, adding to the blockage! After about 1 1/2 hours we were on the Friendship Bridge between Nepal and C. The process of entry took quite a bit longer - actually till about 5 pm. First, the passengers got out at the C. customs to fill out a health declaration and have our temperatures taken. Apparently, someone had crossed at that point the day before with suspected swine flu. We wondered what would happen if anyone had a temperature. We later learned that an Italian group was held up for 5 days because one person had a temperature. Then we carried our luggage over to the customs building to be sprayed - we suspect with a mixture of dettol? - then we walked through the immigration/customs hall. All the officials were very professional and polite and wished us a good visit to C. But, the Truck was not cleared by then, so we literally lay around in the sun, marvelling at the scenery, sleeping on our napsacks. I was really not too well - stomach ache and feeling nauseous - so just lay and slept as best I could lying on the ground propped up against my backpack. Then, when we thought that the Trucks wouldn't be getting through that day, they appeared around 5:30 pm but we couldn't leave the area because the drivers had to report back to customs the next morning. So, we drove to Zhang Mu (2300 meters above sea level), about an hour away, once again marvelling at the beautiful scenery, and rattling about in the Truck on the bumpy-mountain roads. We are staying in the Hotel Gang Gyan - not what could be described as 5-star, but frankly I climbed from the Truck into bed and slept right through until 9:30 am the following morning. Ray had dinner, exchanged some money and came to bed about 10 -10.30. I didn't hear a thing! Next morning Ray dragged me out of bed to visit the Dr. He had had some trouble with his ears when we climbed the mountain at The Last Resort and wanted to check this out so decided I may as well see the Dr. too. So after a "hot" shower (yes it was hot!) we walked a few paces up the main street to the clinic accompanied by our guide. Ray was told "No problem, happens to the locals all the time!" I was given about 4 different pills, told to take 3 of each of them twice a day, and given strict instructions not to eat meat, or fried food and to drink boiled water, not mineral water. I've taken the pills today and so far, so good - no more vomiting and the pain in the stomack is easing off. I was also told I was in excellent shape - good body muscle and excellent blood pressure, etc.!! White waiting for the Trucks to be cleared through customs, we have literally spent the day dodging around the small town. Walked up and back on the main street, went to the ATM, found an Internet, but couldn't hook up to my blog; watched the traffic jams and are now sitting in the hotel, listening to the heavy beat of the rain on the aluminium roof tops. Shortly, around 8, we will drive for 4/5 hours to Nylam where all going well, we will stay the remainder of the night in a hostel. The trucks passing through town are priceless. The road is about 15 - 20 feet wide and there are always little green cars of white SUVs parked on one side or the other. If no cars are parked, then the two-lane road becomes a 3-lane road. The trucks just keep driving and they literally squeeze through spaces with less than inches between them and the other vehicle, wall, etc. No one loses their temper, although everyone is honking, and volunteer helpers gesticulate instructions wildly - but somehow, it all just works. Everyone slides forward, slides back, and pulls in a bit further, and slowly, the jam disappears to be followed almost immediately by exactly the same circumstances. Our trip from Zhang Mu to Nylam was definitely a lifetime "one of" experience. We left the hotel in taxis in the pouring rain, and pushed our way out of the town. The road was closed a short distance out of town because they are re-building it. It was first opened in in 2001, and just about each year or every second year since then, it has been washed out in the monsoon. The government made the decision to "close" the road during the day from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. to do the required road-works! Our trucks had left a little earlier to drive to the point where the road opened, and supposedly where the paving started. About 1/2 hour from the point where the trucks were, there was a check point and the taxis were not allowed through. The story was that they had "broken the rules for the Trucks", but wouldn't do it again for the 33 Dragoman passengers. So, loaded up with small backpacks, cameras, snacks, etc. we set off hiking in the pouring rain up the stoney/bouldery/narrow road with huge gouges out of the edge on some parts and waterfalls on the other parts, around piles of dirt and stone waiting to be used for the road. At one section we came to the road-workers tents and they were all shouting and waving "hello" or "nee-how" at us. Finally, we reached the Trucks, spent a penny and set off on the most wild road I think we have driven on. It ws dark, and foggy, but the rain cleared up. The road was tarmacked, except in areas where it had been wsashed out and in those areas it was just like the conditions we had walked through. In other parts huge almighty boulders had rolled down the steep mountain sides to come to an abrupt halt on the road, or in some cases through the guard rail, across the road, and on down the mountain sides. We passed an other couple of police checks, some buses and trucks on the road, and finally arrived at the hostel/hotel at Nylam, 3700 meters up in the desolate, barren, Tibetan Plateau. Gone are the warm days, and out came the thermal underwear, jackets, hat, and gloves.