We were awakened by the Provodnista this morning around 6:30 am and made ourslves ready for Irkutsk. There was a beautiful stretch of rail along the side of Lake Baikal and then we were in town. Our Russian guide, Olga, met us at the station, and we went for a pancake (blinis) breakfast just at the main square in town; then to "register" our passports with the officials; and finally to change some money before heading south out of the town to the lake.
After about an hour's drive we stopped at The Taltsy Museum of Wooden Architectue, a unique collection of wooden buildings that were rescued from the Lake Baikal area prior to a dam in the area being constructed for hydroelectric purposes. We got a quick but effective introduction into the settlement of the area by the Kossachs from southwest Russia and their traditional lives in Siberia.
Leaving the museum around 3 pm we drove into the village of Listvyanka on the shores of Lake Baikal. The town has a population of about 2500 and is Siberia's "nouveau-riche" play ground. We had a quick lunch then checked into the Listvyanka Chalet where we were staying. This is a neat log home built on the hill side with fabulous lake views. After settling in and a quick shower, we left to visit the Limnological Museum which gave us all the statistics re Lake Baikal which contains about 20% of the world's water supply and which puts Lake Superior in the shade. We also saw the seals that inhabit the lake and a display of the lake's fish. Very interesting, and a "must see if you are in the area.
We chose to be dropped off the van on the main street with our Russian guide; she went for a one minute 10 second swim in the frigid 12C waters of the lake, while we dipped our feet in for the same time. Freezing, freezing, absolutely freezing!! Then Ray and I walkd around the fish market; walked along the pebble beach; and then walked back to the guest house.
It seemed to us that this was definitely not a holiday ground for the rich; but its OK. The lake is charming, but I can't quite put my finger on the atmosphere. We met a couple of Dutch guys staying at the same guest house - one of them was stung by a bee and his arm was swelling up quite badly, so the Gillis medical team was consulted for advice - or chose to offer it!!. They can't wait to get out of Russia!! We gather they have seen both the "good" and the "bad" sides of Russia. So, at this point, the jury is still out! Scenery wise, it's vrey like Canada; the road we are on is somewhat like the higglety pigglety houses around some of the lakes in Qubec; the hills around us bordring the lake could b the Muskoka's; and the Lake stretches for miles like oun of the Great Lakes.
We had dinner in the guest house (not much else around); food was excellent - Ray had the local "omur" fish; chatted with Chris and Jon and ourselves; and went to bed.
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