Photos: http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151305126361961.438855.562066960&type=1&l=50b8e0611d
Today was filled with adventure. Four of us decided we wanted something a little less "organized" than a guided trip of the small villages outside Korhogo, and we went off in search of renting a couple of bike-taxis. We struck a deal with 2 guys, one had a 250 cc Leopard, and the other a 125 cc Sanyo for 25000 cfa for the day to take us to 3 villages outside the city, the furthest being 45 km away. We climbed on the bikes and off we went through the rain-rutted dirt roads of Korhogo to the villages beyond. Our travel was mainly on red laterite irregular roads through the country side and 17 km later we arrived in Koni. There is a ritual to visiting these small traditional villages. First you have to find the Chief, then pay him a visit. Everyone sits down, and shakes hands, and very politely introduce each other to the Chierf. Then it is customary to hand him a small dash for the "village". After that, usually someone has attached themselves to you as your guide and you are free to roam the village and take pictures as you wish. The villages we chose may have been more popular prior to the rebellion, but now they do not see many, if any, visitors. There is no tourism in Cote d'Ivoire so there is no infrastructure set up to amuse tourists. We wandered around the village (400/500 people)amazing at the traditional architecture of mud huts with thatched rooves, and mingled with the local villagers as they did their cooking, spinning, cotton packing, grain thrashing, and of course played with the children. The children are very curious and have no preconceived ideas about visitors other than that we were very different from them. They loved having their pictures taken, and there were chuckles, and amazed expressions when we showed them the pictures after. Then we were back on the bikes and off across the fields to our second stop at Kasoumbarga. I have always wanted to try a motocross and this gave me my opportunity! The path through the fields was just that. We bounced gingerly through the mango trees, cotton plants, and straw grass on a narrow path avoiding rocks and stones, rain gullies, corduroy ripples. We had no idea where we were, and neither did our drivers, so whenever we saw someone working in the fields, we would stop and ask the way. A couple of times we were off route and had to retrace our tracks and take a different fork. No idea how we made it but we did, and soon we were rolling into Kasoumbarga. This village was similar in size but after our ritual with the Chief we were shown around the Catholic School, the Mosque, a Baptist church service, as well as the ruins of an old monastery. The church bell at the catholic school was a beaten up old metal structure which somehow managed to produce the sound of church bells. Here the cotton packing was in full swing and we saw the whole process from taking it from where it was stored in the village to packing it into bags and loading it into the huge containers waiting to take it off to market. Most of these little villages work as a cooperative so somehow I guess the benefits are shared. Finally we took off again through the fields on a track that led to a paved road leading towards our third stop at Niofouin. We were bombing along the paved road getting stiffer and stiffer and finally I said to my bike partner Ed: "Let's do a short stop to stretch" which we did. Ray was having a hard time with the lack of flesh on his bum and so he switched over to sit behind me and Ed went on the bigger bike with Sally. Did I mention that we were 3 up? The driver and 2 of us. I had suggested Ray and I split up so that if anything happened to one the other would be fine! Anyway, when we set off it was only a couple of yards before our driver stopped with a flat tyre. Couldn't believe our luck, we were in a small village and we stopped right by a tyre shop! Fortunately the other bike didn't get too far before they realized we were in trouble and they came back. So we sat waiting for the tyre to be fixed. No shops, so nothing to eat for lunch, no drinks, and nothing really to see. Word must have spread that we were there and people from the village did come and take a look!! Probably about an hour later we were on our way again. We soon left the paved road and took the dirt cut off to the village. This was a bigger village, and this time we were accosted by the police and had to pay 5000 cfa to the Mayor! The houses and the people were lovely, but we got mixed up with some crazy guy when trying to photograph one of their sacrifical sites. Not sure what it was all about, but we just got out of his way as quickly as possible and kept going. Our drivers said he had been drinking. We spent some time with a bunch of construction workers who were building a new compound, and the number of children who followed us around became overwhelming. however, all the women has a good sense of humour and got as much of a chuckle out of it as we did. By this time it was 5 o'clock and as we had 45 km to go to get back to the city we thought we should leave. it was about an hour and a half back on a paved road, very little traffic, and about the only attraction were the herds of cows which barred our path from time to time. All in all, we felt very safe. Our drivers took good care of us and were experts at manipulating all the challenges of the country paths, dirt roads, and paved highways. The only time we felt any threat was a few moments at one of the check points - I could smell alcohol and the chap on the "rope" across the road was a little threatening to the driver but soon renegged and let us through. So, I don't know if there was any danger in doing what we did, but if there was, we didn't have any sense of it. We were in some pretty remote places and I really don't think the trouble would have been in fhe fields or villages, but who knows about the paved roads. We came home exhausted, covered in red dirt, but happy and excited about the day. Final analysis: thrill high, experience high, education moderate!!
As it was Sunday night most restauratns were closed but we found a little Moroccan restaurant close to the hotel and settled down to a lovely fresh salad, chicken, and french fries!!
Today, Monday, we have chiled. Took a walk around the city, saw the Grand Mosque, the Town Hall, some of the government buildinghs, and the street markets. Then I settled down to try and update my blog and save my pictures.
Korhogo is the capital of the Senoufo ethnic group and is famous for its art and crafts. The city was seized by the rebels in 2002 and has been the centre of many brutal gun battles. In 2004 the UN discovered mass graves in the town. We are staying in the Hotel Mont Korhogo. It was probably in its hey day in the 1970s but now, although it still has the charm of it's earlier years, it is a little worn. However, the rooms are great, there is a pool, and it's location is central. Had some laundry done which I rescued from the cockroach infested washrooms last night before bed. It also has a zoo of sourts. 3 crocodiles, some deer, a turtle, and some chickens. I don't think the animal rights activists can have found it yet, as I am sure they would not be happy and would have lots to say about it!!
Tomorrow we head west in Cote d'Ivoire and will be out of touch for many days. So, keep checking and as soon as I can, I will continue. In the meantime, take care, and if you feel cold, think of us here in the boiling hot African temperatures in the mid to upper 30s!!
Today was filled with adventure. Four of us decided we wanted something a little less "organized" than a guided trip of the small villages outside Korhogo, and we went off in search of renting a couple of bike-taxis. We struck a deal with 2 guys, one had a 250 cc Leopard, and the other a 125 cc Sanyo for 25000 cfa for the day to take us to 3 villages outside the city, the furthest being 45 km away. We climbed on the bikes and off we went through the rain-rutted dirt roads of Korhogo to the villages beyond. Our travel was mainly on red laterite irregular roads through the country side and 17 km later we arrived in Koni. There is a ritual to visiting these small traditional villages. First you have to find the Chief, then pay him a visit. Everyone sits down, and shakes hands, and very politely introduce each other to the Chierf. Then it is customary to hand him a small dash for the "village". After that, usually someone has attached themselves to you as your guide and you are free to roam the village and take pictures as you wish. The villages we chose may have been more popular prior to the rebellion, but now they do not see many, if any, visitors. There is no tourism in Cote d'Ivoire so there is no infrastructure set up to amuse tourists. We wandered around the village (400/500 people)amazing at the traditional architecture of mud huts with thatched rooves, and mingled with the local villagers as they did their cooking, spinning, cotton packing, grain thrashing, and of course played with the children. The children are very curious and have no preconceived ideas about visitors other than that we were very different from them. They loved having their pictures taken, and there were chuckles, and amazed expressions when we showed them the pictures after. Then we were back on the bikes and off across the fields to our second stop at Kasoumbarga. I have always wanted to try a motocross and this gave me my opportunity! The path through the fields was just that. We bounced gingerly through the mango trees, cotton plants, and straw grass on a narrow path avoiding rocks and stones, rain gullies, corduroy ripples. We had no idea where we were, and neither did our drivers, so whenever we saw someone working in the fields, we would stop and ask the way. A couple of times we were off route and had to retrace our tracks and take a different fork. No idea how we made it but we did, and soon we were rolling into Kasoumbarga. This village was similar in size but after our ritual with the Chief we were shown around the Catholic School, the Mosque, a Baptist church service, as well as the ruins of an old monastery. The church bell at the catholic school was a beaten up old metal structure which somehow managed to produce the sound of church bells. Here the cotton packing was in full swing and we saw the whole process from taking it from where it was stored in the village to packing it into bags and loading it into the huge containers waiting to take it off to market. Most of these little villages work as a cooperative so somehow I guess the benefits are shared. Finally we took off again through the fields on a track that led to a paved road leading towards our third stop at Niofouin. We were bombing along the paved road getting stiffer and stiffer and finally I said to my bike partner Ed: "Let's do a short stop to stretch" which we did. Ray was having a hard time with the lack of flesh on his bum and so he switched over to sit behind me and Ed went on the bigger bike with Sally. Did I mention that we were 3 up? The driver and 2 of us. I had suggested Ray and I split up so that if anything happened to one the other would be fine! Anyway, when we set off it was only a couple of yards before our driver stopped with a flat tyre. Couldn't believe our luck, we were in a small village and we stopped right by a tyre shop! Fortunately the other bike didn't get too far before they realized we were in trouble and they came back. So we sat waiting for the tyre to be fixed. No shops, so nothing to eat for lunch, no drinks, and nothing really to see. Word must have spread that we were there and people from the village did come and take a look!! Probably about an hour later we were on our way again. We soon left the paved road and took the dirt cut off to the village. This was a bigger village, and this time we were accosted by the police and had to pay 5000 cfa to the Mayor! The houses and the people were lovely, but we got mixed up with some crazy guy when trying to photograph one of their sacrifical sites. Not sure what it was all about, but we just got out of his way as quickly as possible and kept going. Our drivers said he had been drinking. We spent some time with a bunch of construction workers who were building a new compound, and the number of children who followed us around became overwhelming. however, all the women has a good sense of humour and got as much of a chuckle out of it as we did. By this time it was 5 o'clock and as we had 45 km to go to get back to the city we thought we should leave. it was about an hour and a half back on a paved road, very little traffic, and about the only attraction were the herds of cows which barred our path from time to time. All in all, we felt very safe. Our drivers took good care of us and were experts at manipulating all the challenges of the country paths, dirt roads, and paved highways. The only time we felt any threat was a few moments at one of the check points - I could smell alcohol and the chap on the "rope" across the road was a little threatening to the driver but soon renegged and let us through. So, I don't know if there was any danger in doing what we did, but if there was, we didn't have any sense of it. We were in some pretty remote places and I really don't think the trouble would have been in fhe fields or villages, but who knows about the paved roads. We came home exhausted, covered in red dirt, but happy and excited about the day. Final analysis: thrill high, experience high, education moderate!!
As it was Sunday night most restauratns were closed but we found a little Moroccan restaurant close to the hotel and settled down to a lovely fresh salad, chicken, and french fries!!
Today, Monday, we have chiled. Took a walk around the city, saw the Grand Mosque, the Town Hall, some of the government buildinghs, and the street markets. Then I settled down to try and update my blog and save my pictures.
Korhogo is the capital of the Senoufo ethnic group and is famous for its art and crafts. The city was seized by the rebels in 2002 and has been the centre of many brutal gun battles. In 2004 the UN discovered mass graves in the town. We are staying in the Hotel Mont Korhogo. It was probably in its hey day in the 1970s but now, although it still has the charm of it's earlier years, it is a little worn. However, the rooms are great, there is a pool, and it's location is central. Had some laundry done which I rescued from the cockroach infested washrooms last night before bed. It also has a zoo of sourts. 3 crocodiles, some deer, a turtle, and some chickens. I don't think the animal rights activists can have found it yet, as I am sure they would not be happy and would have lots to say about it!!
Tomorrow we head west in Cote d'Ivoire and will be out of touch for many days. So, keep checking and as soon as I can, I will continue. In the meantime, take care, and if you feel cold, think of us here in the boiling hot African temperatures in the mid to upper 30s!!
No comments:
Post a Comment