Some will call this “wilderness”, but I think it is really
the “semi wilderness” for although there is nothing much for miles and miles
around us, there are lots of people investigating their special spot. You don’t
see them, but when you go into the towns and restaurants, there are plenty of
cars, and plenty of people.
Queenstown is a small town on the west coast of
Tasmania, population about 2000, and its history and survival are tied to
mining. First gold in 1882, then copper around 1892, and at some stage timber,
silver, iron ore, lead, nickel, and others. Today, because the price of these
metals has dropped, the remaining mines have been mothballed waiting an up turn
in the market. As a result, much of the population has left and there is an air
of desertedness when you walk around town. But, despite all this bad news, the
town has character, lots of it! The buildings are reminiscent of the Australian
colonial style of the 1800s, the people are upbeat, and tourism is filling the gap. I had the tastiest omelet I have had in years
for breakfast and then we had a nice walk around town before setting off through
the bracken-like foliage and over the plains for Strachan.
Strachan, on the Macquarie Harbour, looks
much more modern, but still quaint. It used to be a significant port but is now
mainly a tourist town. You can take cruises there up the Gordon River, and take
a tourist train ride to Queenstown. We enquired about these two activities
which had been highly recommended to us, but the timing was not right. So, we
opted to drive out to Ocean Beach, 40km in length, wild and rugged. The roaring
forties winds created pounding blue waves with white foaming crests rolling in
over the flat golden- sand, dune-lined beach. Then we drove back into town and
went up to the Water Tower and its view overlooking the beach, the harbour, and
the surrounding countryside. After that, we went to People’s Park and took the
trail through the rainforest to Hogarth Falls – about 45 minutes. The black gum,
acacia, and sassafras trees tower over the many fronds of the tree ferns, which
in turn protect the ferns of the undergrowth. Lush and green, not always
pleasant smelling due to the musky smelling bark and leaves of the sassafras trees,
but utterly gorgeous and tranquil.
There was excitement in town today.
Yesterday afternoon there had been a town announcement about e-coli in the town
water system and residents have to “boil” their water for at least a week. We
also heard about all the excitement in town during the forest fires. When they
were at their height, planes were flying over the river that runs through
Strachan to take up water for dousing the fires in the real wilderness. After
having something to eat we set off for Cradle Mountain.
The drive through was very pretty, the roads surprisingly
good, and it took us about 2.5 hours. We didn’t pass much on the way; a couple
of small towns: Zeehan and Roseberry; the Bluestone Renison Tin Mine, which is
apparently the largest operating tin mine in Australia; button grass plain,
heathland, and myrtle rain forest. To me, many parts of it reminded me of the
gorse heaths in Scotland. And of course it started raining and has continued to
rain every since. The temperature is about 16, so shorts today were pushing
it…but I stuck it out till the evening.
We are staying tonight in civilization
compared to last night. The Cradle Mountain Hotel. Very comfortable, and
greatly appreciated. Had a lovely dinner in a civilized dining room, and now
have my own queen size, softy and cushy, bed to sleep in! Bliss. As we settle
down to sleep we are hoping that Alanna has/had a good flight to Hong Kong and
will soon be settled into her business meetings there.
No comments:
Post a Comment