Portree Day 2 – May 11, 2019

Portree Day 2 - May 11, 2019

I can’t find the words to express my feelings about today. It was simply “amazing” from beginning to end. First of all being with friends like Robin and Peter; second the stunning scenery; third the “fun” hike; fourth the amazing people we met on the trail; fifth the delicious dinner….and wine; and sixth  I am so grateful for the opportunity to be here in Skye, and for my family back home. Thank you Robin and Peter for inviting me.

Immediately after breakfast we changed B & Bs. Unfortunately, our first host, Catriona, couldn’t put us up for the 4 nights, so she connected us with a relative at “Easdale” in Portree, and we moved our stuff over there.

Phew! This morning we did the Skye “Quiraing” walk/hike. It wasn’t the easiest walk in that the elevation and some of the paths were challenging, but it was beauty plus from beginning to end. Here is the web site if you are going to be in Scotland and feel like doing it: https://www.isleofskye.com/skye-guide/top-ten-skye-walks/the-quiraing. The landscape is magical. There are pinnacles, plateaus, peaks, and hidden meadows all of which are said to be hiding places for the fairies. I should explain: fairy folklore abounds in Skye and of course it helps if you believe in the "supernatural!" It starts with Scotland's "unicorn" which you might say, is Scotland's national "animal." References to the "unicorn" go back to the ancient Babylonians and the Celts, and in the 12th Century the unicorn became the symbol of nobility and power. Now it is more the symbol of Scotland's freedom loving spirit and its hauntingly beautiful wild nature. But it is said that there is danger in the unicorn as well and in the Royal Coat of Arms of both Scotland and the UK the unicorn is wrapped in chains because it is said that it is too dangerous to be set free and impossible to capture. What better creature to represent the bold Scots and their scenery!!!

The walk is classified as medium in length, and hard in difficulty. I clocked 8.24 k, in a total of 3:45:54, with 2:22:31 of actual walking time. The rest was taken up with stopping for pictures and admiring the views.  I will leave the pictures to express the beauty….although no photo can capture the full impression that experiencing the walk gives you.

After the walk we drove around the coast to Uig. The road was a narrow one lane road with passing lanes. So beautiful but hair-raising if you are not a Scot!! We went to the Scheiling for lunch. An out of the way little café with delicious food and a very informative owner. Very “pro” Scotland, and when you hear some of the stories he related to us, no wonder!!! On our journeys today we noticed lots of vehicles with the Scottish flag, and the symbol “YES” For Scotland! We took it as a demonstration of agreement for an independent Scotland. The Scots are feisty!! They don’t seem to be sitting back without voicing their opinions. They are also very “anti” Trump! Mainly because of his dealings regarding “his” golf course in Turnberry.

Uig is a really tiny town with a ferry service to Harris and Uist in the Outer Hebrides, and absolutely beautiful scenery.

After lunch we headed out to see the ruins of the Duntalm Castle high on the cliffs of theTrotternish Peninsula.The castle was built in the 14th and 15th centuries, and in the 17th century it was the seat of the chiefsof the clan MacDonald of Sleat.  The ruins are locked off as they are said to be very unstable, and as they are surrounded by steep cliffs and the ocean, we didn’t “jump” the fence to get a picture. The surrounding countryside is fields of sheep…and lambs!! It is all so pretty!!

By the time we got back to Portree, it was getting near dinner, and as we didn’t have a dinner reservation, we dropped the car off at the B & B and walked the short distance into town for dinner at the Portree Hotel. 

One of the unfortunate things about Portree, is the fact that there are not enough restaurants, therefore,  there is usually about an hour’s wait for dinner in most of the restaurants. I can’t imagine how the locals cope with all the tourism!! Our one B & B host suggested the increased tourism was partly due to the “safe” place that Skye represents!  And that is true. You feel as if you are tucked away from the rest of the world and all its horrors on this magical utopian island surrounded by ocean and protected by majestic mountains.

So, our early dinner, means I have time to catch up on writing my blog....but not to post it!!!