Ohrid - Macedonia

Friday June 1

We had a relaxed morning and didn’t meet the group until 10:00 a.m. for a boat ride on Lake Ohrid. This lake is bordered by Albania on one side and Macedonia on the other. It is said to be one of Europe’s deepest and oldest lakes and was declared a UNESCO heritage site in 1979.We had a pleasant boat ride; some of the group swam in the lake; we didn’t. For me, although the lake was about 16C there was a cool wind blowing, and I felt too cold to look forward to a swim and then freeze in the cool air!! Wimp!!

At the lake side we saw an old home of Tito’s (the leader of Yugoslav for many years) which is now owned and used by the government of Macedonia. We chugged through an area of tall flowing reeds and up a narrow canal to dock for a brief visit to a fish spawning area and although the process appeared to be like that at the Hatchery in Squamish, it was debateable how  many fish are actually bred and returned to the lake waters!! That said, the landscaping around the hatchery was quite pretty.

When we got back to land we headed out to lunch in a local restaurant and then spent the rest of the afternoon exploring Ohrid including the ruined Samuil’s Fortress - there wasn’t much left of the buildings but it is obvious there are restoration efforts to restore it to its original glory; the disused amphitheatre tucked away in amongst all the homes on the hill in the old town; a monastery/the “Plaosnik” Byzantine church/university complex which is in development.  When we walked into the “Plaosnik” you could feel your body becoming still, a warmth creep over you, and a smile develop over your face: it was quietly beautiful. The icons and wall paintings were nicely restored in calming colours, the lights and other fixtures in the church were made out of the most delicate gold, and the recurring arched ceilings curved over the building protecting all of the peace from the outside fracas of noise and bustle.

We also saw the Icon Gallery and studied the faces of the iconic figures, Mary, and Jesus and various saints, and wondered at the glum countenances recorded by the artist at moments that in today’s society would cause broad smiles. Our final stop of the day was the Church of Sveta Bogorodica Perivlepta. Where the Plaosnik church was elegant, and peaceful, this church was loud and in your face; large, strong coloured icons and wall murals spread over the whole surface of the church and held your eyes transfixed. Posters in the lobby explained the laborious and dedicated process of restoring the church to its current glory.  

We had an interesting few moments in this  church. Around 4:30 (it closes at 5), the chap overseeing visitors to the church told us he was leaving for 5 minutes and would be back. He locked us in. I didn't hear him tell Ray this, and when Ray came and told me not to be alarmed if I found the door locked, I silently prayed that he would remember us and return. About 10 minutes later, we heard knocking on the door. I went to it and called out to the person outside that I couldn't open the door. More rattling, and talking that I couldn't understand. Eventually this chap went away. A few moments later someone else came and knocked on the door. We went to it again. This time the person spoke English....well some!! We tried to explain that the guy looking after the place had gone for 5 minutes (it was about 15 now) and would be back! I could hear the "consternation" from the other side of the door, and the incredulity that I couldn't open the door!!! A few moments later we were saved; we heard a car drive up, and Christian came and opened the door and set us free!! A few moments of concern, but with a happy ending!!

We meandered back to the hotel through the narrow streets of the old town, reflecting on our stimulating day and enjoying the soft aromas of the masses of colourful flowers that adorned the window boxes, flower pots and hanging baskets of the various homes along our route.

There is a “new town” of Ohrid. Somehow though, the new towns feel impersonal, more similar to our own life styles, and unless there is some appealing reason to investigate the new town (such as the interesting architecture and museums in Tirana) we prefer to investigate the culture, history, and old buildings of the old towns which provide much more character and in many cases beauty, than the new town.

We capped the day off with dinner by the side of the lake, in the old town - note the blankets hanging on the backs of the chairs!!; we shared what we didn’t eat with one of the dogs that seemed to take a shine to us; she took every mouthful gently, careful not to bite our fingers nor appear too greedy, and through her mournful, kindly eyes, we knew she was grateful.