I have had a life-long dream to visit Bali, but it used to sound so far away, so unreachable, like a trip to Mars; and I had romantic notions about what it would be like: lush, green, rice paddies, beautiful ladies, temples, and dancing. Then as the years progressed, Bali became closer, and I realized that if I wanted to visit, I had to be the one to arrange it. And….here we are…..a life dream accomplished!
And
what is it like? We arrived in the dark at Denpasar and drove from the airport through endless buildings, shops, traffic and people, to end up here in Penestanen just outside the centre of
Ubud. Amidst a flurry of motor scooters and greetings our baggage was loaded
onto two motor scooters and we were shown along the laneway to our rental villa by the
owner Geoffrey, and his night watchman, Kadek. After a briefing on the house,
with promises of “more tomorrow” Geoffrey took us 100 steps from the house to
the Dream Resort where he had booked a table for us to have dinner. How
thoughtful! It was just perfect as by this time it was close to 9:00 p.m.
We
woke up refreshed on Friday morning and heard the gentle noises of someone in
the kitchen. Jero, Geoffrey’s helper was here to clean up and make us
breakfast! Needless to say, we had disturbed very little, but it was lovely to
know I didn’t have to clean, nor make the beds, nor even make breakfast!! Geoffrey came over and briefed us extensively
on the workings of the house, and responded in depth to all our questions about
places to go and things to do. It was like a crash course on Bali in one
morning. We learned about various customs, don’t hang clothes above your head,
and always keep a light burning at night to drive out the evil spirits; we learned about restaurants to go to,
temples to visit, cultural dance performances; where the super market was and
the trip along the lanes to get there; yoga and fitness studios; barbers; he
introduced his staff to us: Gade who is house manager, Wayan who is the driver,
Gero the indoor helper, and Kadek who looks after the gardens and the pool. And
after all of this we felt well equipped to assume our temporary residence.
The
house, Rumah Sawah Kita is situated 200-300 metres down a little some-what paved lane – I
liken it to the hutongs we cycled through in Beijing, a narrow laneway lined by
buildings on either side. Here the laneway is home to villas, hotels,
restaurants, yoga studios, spas, dogs, cats, motor bikes, people, and rice fields. It is a hive of activity and energy that only seems to slow down over night. The
house is beautiful! Rather than create my own description, I will give you
Geoffrey’s description of it which is far more accurate than I could ever be:
“This extraordinary
near-new villa/home set in the artist village of Penestanan, next to Ubud is
designed in the Javanese Joglo style with many traditional features and
furnishings, but with all modern conveniences. The U-shaped house is built
around two flowering trees (frangipani and flame tree) laden with orchids
shading an ornamental Koi pond at their feet. It features spacious airy living
rooms, gourmet kitchen, three different dining areas, set beside a substantial
swimming pool, and exquisitely furnished with quality and character. The very
best of Bali living.
A “guest house” lies
across the Koi pond, and houses the main living area open on three sides to the
lush tropical garden and furnished with a hand made rattan lounge suite, a
carved four poster daybed, and the second bedroom, which also features a
four-poster bed, indoor/outdoor bathroom, refrigerator, and air conditioning.
Beautifully lit slate stepping stones lead to the pool on one side, and on the other, to the carved and antique doors that form the entrance to whole compound.”
What more could I add. It is all accurate!! Here are a few pictures of the house, the garden, and the lane we walk down to get here.
After Geoffrey’s visit we went for lunch in
a little restaurant 100 steps in the opposite direction to dinner the night
before! Then we set off to find the Bintang supermarket. We followed
Geoffrey’s instructions and took the lane way from the opposite side of the
main road. What a maze!! At times we were walking along the edge of small rice
paddies, and at other times we curved past various buildings all with their
little shrines for daily rituals and donations to the spirits. I am not sure if
we chose the right path or not, but after some back tracking we did end up at
the right place. When we were in the supermarket, it started to pour and we
could hear the rain hammering on the metal roof above. But, by the time we came
out, the rain had disappeared and the sun was shining once again.
On Saturday, we headed into Ubud, along the
lane to the main road, along the main road, down a very steep hill, a switch
back turn, and we were on the road headed to Ubud. The whole experience was
eclectic and energizing, despite the heat and humidity. There was constant
traffic moving at about 50 k max with three times more small bikes or motor
scooters than there were cars. The scooters were driven by men and women and
tourists and locals; anything from one up to 5 up!! You could see many of the tourists were just becoming used
to the bikes and their faces grimaced with concern and concentration! But as
with most Asian cities, everyone avoids everyone else…..somehow!!! The side by
side buildings practically touched each other and lined the route to the far
end of town: shops, tourist agents, motor bike
rentals, and money changers. It seemed that everyone had a taxi for rental, and
everyone else had something to sell you. The locals were friendly, and no
umbrage was taken when we refused their goods or services. We walked to the far
end by the roundabout and found the barber shop that Geoffrey had suggested.
Ray got a hair cut for $2.00 Cdn. It actually looks very good!!!
When we got back to the house we had a
lovely swim in the infinity pool and for the second night in a row, ate in the
house. Why wouldn’t we? The setting here is so beautiful; the gurgle of the
water in the Koi pond, the beautiful lush and colourful garden, and the peace
and quietness of our own company. After the past few weeks it is paradise.
However, I am sure Geoffrey and the staff are wondering if we are ever going to leave the house to see the rest of Bali. We will, but right now we are enjoying each moment,
finding out new things slowly, going new places slowly, and relaxing in our temporary
environment.
1 comment:
Nice place. Much better than the bamboo hut on stilts I had envisioned you staying in, with pigs living underneath!
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