After our busy few days, we took time out during the day to catch
up on emails and blog writing. In the evening, Peter, Ray and I traipsed into
Ubud to the Ubud Palace to see a performance of the traditional Barong and
Legong dancing. Unfortunately, Robin didn’t feel so good, and stayed at the
villa to recover.
The Barong dance is probably the most well known of the three
traditional Bali dances, the Barong, the Lagong, and the Kecak, or fire dance.
The Barong relates to the struggle between good (the Barong) and evil (Rangda). The Legong is the classical dance of the princely courts, and tells one of
several stories from the Malat Hindu-Javanese literature. The Kecak is usually
performed by men only and resembles a “hypnotic trance”. The music played is
“Gamelan” and the orchestra is mainly percussion, but I also saw and heard some
flutes.
The Legong story told was based on a “historical romance of the 13th
Century. Princess Rangkesari has been abducted by Prince Lasem. She refuses to
yield to him. She hears that the prince she is betrothed to is coming to rescue
her. Lasem will not free Princess Rangkesari and prefers to go to battle. On
the way, he meets a raven, which is supposed to be a bad omen. He ignores this
and continues on to battle and death!!
The dancing is highly disciplined with definite head movements,
sharp eye movements, and beautiful hand and arm movements. The snug fitting
costumes for the women, meant to exaggerate the female body, were brightly coloured
gold printed patterns and exotic head dresses and together with the dramatic
makeup serve to create an almost supernatural character.
Neither the Barong nor the Legong dances were the full
performance, but really just extracts to give the “tourists” a flavor of the
traditional Balinese dances. No sooner had the first section of the Legong
dancing finished than the rain surprised everyone watching by flooding down
from the heavens causing a flurry of activity as everyone, audience, dancers, and musicians, scrambled to relocate to an inside hall.
Then the Barong dance started. The dance acts out mythology and
myth and history are blended into one reality always narrating the story of
good versus evil. The masks of the Barong and Rangda are considered sacred and
must be blessed by a priest by sprinkling them with holy water taken from Mount
Agung immediately prior to the performance. The Barong character has a lovely
mix of strength, playfulness, and contemplation and is played by two people
dressed up in the same costume. The Barong has a friend who is a monkey, and
once again it is fascinating to watch the “monkey” characteristics expressed by
the actor. The story told was adapted from the Hindu epic, the Mahabharata.
The evening was magical. It was living a mythical story in another
world.
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